Souvenirs to leave behind
By Jancis Robinson
Published: August 30 2008
At this time of year, bottles carefully brought home from southern Europe are traditionally
opened all over northern Europe in a fever of anticipation. But those who expect
their treasured wine mementoes to prolong the warmth and languor of the summer holiday
just past are all too often disappointed. The red, white or rosé that tasted so
glorious on a vine-shaded terrace seems just plain ordinary under grey skies. Cue
the perennial question: why doesn’t this wine travel?
Except that it is rarely the wine’s fault. That wine tasting is a subjective experience
is vividly illustrated by this frustrating phenomenon. It is almost invariably ourselves,
our mood and our environment that have changed rather than the wine. Modern wine
is made to withstand long journeys. Many a bottle on a British supermarket shelf
was trucked across the Channel only days before.
Recommendations
REDS
Ch Prieuré Borde-Rouge, Ange 2004 Corbières
Fully mature mountain wine – more pleasurable than Ch Lafite 1998, tasted the day
before.
£15.50 incl delivery, www.winehunters.co.uk
www.jancisrobinson.com
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Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2008